What Voltage Should My Marine Battery Read

THE BASICS ON BATTERIES
*Important Items Highlighted/ Colored

Starting time things first. A 12-volt battery is not a 12-volt battery. Twelve volts is simply a nominal, user-friendly term used to distinguish one bombardment from another. A fully-charged 12-volt bombardment, allowed to "residual" for a few hours (or days) with no load being fatigued from it (or charge going to it), will balance out its charge and measure out about 12.6 volts between terminals.

When a battery reads only 12 volts under the above weather condition, it'due south nearly fully depleted. Actually, if a battery's resting voltage is just 12.0 to 12.1 it ways simply 20 to 25% of its useful free energy remains. It's either a goner or it has been deep cycled, and a bombardment can but exist deep-cycled a limited number of times before it is indeed dead.

12-volt batteries supply useful free energy only through a limited range — from over 14 volts (when fully charged and unrested) downwardly to ten.five volts in utilize/nether load (when lights dim, pumps groan and TV pictures become pocket-sized). No 12-volt bombardment will remain at over 14 volts for more than seconds unless it's beingness charged. The lowest limit is x.5 volts (used in testing) and obviously unsatisfactory in practical apply. Experienced RVers try to use no more than than 20% to 50% of the energy bachelor in a bombardment before recharging. That means they never let resting voltage get below 12.5. They never use more than than l% before recharging (resting volts of 12.3) except in an emergency. They know that, if resting voltage e'er reaches 12.1, they have deep-discharged one cycle and that a battery is good for only so many cycles (from every bit depression as 20 in an automotive battery to 180 in a golf cart battery, with the typical RV/marine battery skilful for no more than than 30).

Watts = Volts x Amps example: 60W = 12V x A and 60 ÷ 12 = five amps

Bombardment CHARGING VOLTAGE
Charging voltage is different. Some more basics: If y'all read manufactures on how electricity flows, you run into comparisons as to how water flows. This is okay up to a betoken, merely water also flows by gravity. Electricity doesn't, information technology has to be "pushed" (just as h2o has to sometimes be pumped).

You have to have more "juice" at one terminate of a wire than you lot demand at the output or electricity won't menstruum. The wire you pump electricity through and the connections in the lines resist the flow. Yous have to overpower it. Similarly, batteries have an inherent resistance to take a accuse considering of their chemic makeup. You take to force more electricity into a battery than it would similar to accept or information technology won't exist fully charged. To charge a standard 12-volt battery, you have to bring it up to to a higher place xiv volts (corporeality varies with the type of battery).

When checking the batteries, (at residue) use these "Voltage Landmarks".

12.half-dozen volts = 100%
12.5 volts = lxx%
12.3 volts = 50%
eleven.4 volts = 20%

The typical wet-cell battery (atomic number 82 plates in a mixture of sulfuric acid and water) needs to exist charged up to about 14.+ volts in guild to adequately distribute those funny little things chosen electrons through the plates. Once that's done, the battery tin residual. As it does, the electrons distribute themselves and eventually balance out at 12.6 volts (more than or less, depending on the type battery and its condition). This is your starting point.

MORE AMPS AND VOLTS
Equally mentioned earlier, you should merely depict a bombardment down to about 12.iii volts before recharging . Obviously, there's more to it than that. Amperes are the measure out of actual power available. They're usually converted to amp(ere) hours (AH). Think of information technology equally the amount of (nominal) 12-volt power y'all can draw out of a battery for a sure corporeality of time. It'south not just three-tenths of a volt. It's 12 (nominal) volts for a certain corporeality of time. The iii-tenths stuff is nada more than a difference in measurement — like the departure between three-fourths of a tank of gas and a half tank.

Wait at voltage every bit 2 things: Beginning, a force that pushes electrons — Second, as a handy measurement.

Await at amperes as two things: First, a quantity of free energy (like yous would a gallon of gas) — Second, as a handy measurement. From a (nominal once more, don't forget) 12-volt tub of energy, you tin extract but so many amperes of power.

Keep in mind that the laws of physics prevent you lot from getting more out of something than you put into it! Go on in mind that waste (those wires, battery contents and such) prevents you from taking out as much equally yous put in. Keep in mind that you're going to have to put in about 10% more electrical power than y'all use (high school physics). A battery banking concern is similar a "money" bank or checking account — if you repeatedly have more out than y'all put in, you'll eventually be in problem.

More than ON BATTERY CHARGING
Not all batteries are the same. Standard wet-cell batteries tin can be charged to fourteen.+ volts (usually 14.3 but depends on the manufacturer). Gel-cell batteries and other sealed batteries should never be charged to more than about 14.1 volts (again, may vary depending on manufacturer). And these figures only pertain when the charger will be disconnected as those levels are reached (every bit with a generator, solar arrangement, portable charger, or engine alternator). As the volts drop (usually down to about 12.6 to 13.three), charging begins over again, either manually or through an automated regulator. Note also: The maximum charging voltage quoted for gels by the manufacturer is every bit a sustained voltage, not an intermittent ane. That means brief over-voltages before a regulator shuts off are OK.

Sustained charging, where the batteries are "floated" at a constant charge (as in the RV converter or with an automatic portable charger) should not be washed at more 13.viii volts (and 13.65 makes batteries concluding longer). Information technology's supposed to keep the batteries "upwards" to a reasonable level without undercharging or overcharging them (the assumption beingness you'll "top them off" by driving). Unfortunately, many cheap chargers and RV converters don't regulate very well. Overcharging destroys batteries speedily. Undercharging destroys batteries too, but more than subtly as the battery stratifies and volition no longer maintain a accuse. In effect, the 100 amp/hour RV battery becomes a 10 amp/hr battery after consistent undercharge. It will read full voltage, simply as soon equally a small-scale load is placed on information technology, it drops to nothing. RVers who remain plugged into commercial ability for long periods often never know this has happened until they unplug, because the converter's transformer as well supplies power direct to the RV circuits while it'south charging the battery — or trying to.

Bombardment EQUALIZING
Sometimes an equalizing accuse can correct the in a higher place situation. BUT, don't e'er try to equalize a really sealed wet battery or gel-celled or AGM battery! You lot've got to be really careful when doing this! The battery is going to "gas" (bubbles in the cells, hydrogen gas escaping). It shouldn't be violent, spewing acid an over the place, simply gentle to rapid bubbling merely it requires circumspection. Information technology's usually done by hooking upwards a manual charger, then bringing the voltage up to fourteen.1 or 14.iii and, instead of stopping as usual, keeping it there, at about a 5-amp accuse, for three to six hours (until voltage reaches 14.v to fifteen). Practice this with the caps off of a standard battery and so you can come across what's going on. Nigh three hours is commonly normal for one of these equalizing charges.

Follow safety precautions, use safety goggles, enough of ventilation, etc.

Some battery people recommend equalizing in this manner every three months (or after v deep cycles). I think the habiliment and tear on a 12V bombardment from equalizing this oft does more damage than information technology'due south worth.

Batteries held at xiii.8 or so for long periods go lazy and like it there. They need some "equalizing" besides. Not every bit drastic as to a higher place, fortunately. If you lot bulldoze occasionally, your engine alternator should do information technology (assuming the regulator is set properly). So volition a solar electric system or a proficient, well-regulated contained bombardment charger. If goose egg else, use the transmission charger in one case in a while when parked and plugged in, but only bring volts up to xiv.+ (whatever's appropriate) and end there.

Golf Cart Bombardment
Six volt heavy-duty batteries (like golf carts, etc.) differ. Their heavy plates and other structure features allow periodic equalizing. I recommend the same v amp charge rate, for three to six hours (until voltage reaches a maximum of sixteen.five) every six months or so. It varies, with some people doing information technology monthly (which might mean some other problem).

BATTERY CHARGE/Belch RATE
You'll see references in bombardment books to the proper charge rate. C/10, C/20, etc. Sometimes it can be confusing. What you lot demand to know is that it means the "time" it takes to fully charge a "expressionless" battery at a sure amp rate. For example: A 105AH battery will fully recharge (from dead) in about ten hours at near 10 amps of accuse (C/10) or nearly 20 hours at 5 amps of charge (C/twenty). Faster charge rates, like C/5 or C/8 shouldn't be used with most batteries because the high amperage required for such a fast charge damages the battery. C/5 on a dead 105 AH battery requires pounding in over twenty amps. (This is sufficient reason to stay away from fast-chargers in service stations where a gigantic corporeality of amps are pummeling your battery when they "accuse" (destroy) it in 20 minutes. And when you purchase a battery off the shelf, don't allow the guy "put it on a charger for merely a few minutes" or it will be damaged before you ever use it.

BATTERY TROUBLESHOOTING AND Battery TESTING
Don't just replace batteries and keep on trucking! Find out what went wrong first. Is the converter working? Voltage too high? Also depression? Is it connected to the battery? Fuse diddled? Wire broken? Contacts cruddy? Kill switch on motor dwelling on or off (whichever is advisable — and the incorrect position a common fault among motor homers)? How many times have yous deep-cycled? Short in the organization? Been hooked up a long time? Automotive regulator/alternator OK? (More later.)

Measuring, metering, testing and troubleshooting require only a few tools and basic noesis. Much of it is common sense, requiring no tools. Do not ever depend on the ruby/xanthous/light-green idiot meter installed in most RV'southward. Get a digital meter. You need a digital meter to accurately read battery voltage to tenths of a volt. Y'all should accept an Analog (needle confront) meter also. You can't tell the difference betwixt bombardment voltages with an analog with great accuracy, simply they are meliorate in some ways (because it'due south easier to encounter rapid changes) than digital meters for reading fluctuations. (Much more than later.)

Become a 12-volt troubleshooting lite/examination lamp from any auto store inexpensive or brand your ain. (Meters volition point voltage even if there'due south but ane strand left in a wire. Test lamps won't light if there's not enough wire to acquit the load.)

Get a decent hydrometer if you take moisture-cell batteries and tin can remove the caps. Don't get a cheapie with colored, floating balls. Learn how to read a hydrometer.

Bombardment Testing
Can exist done in more than one way: The most authentic method of measurement is using a hydrometer to measure specific gravity and using a D.C. voltmeter to get the battery voltage.
A quality load tester may be a good purchase if you need to test sealed12 volt batteries.
For whatever of these methods, you must first fully accuse the battery and and then remove the surface accuse. If the bombardment has been sitting at least several hours (I prefer at least 12 hours) you may begin testing. To remove surface charge the bombardment must exist discharged for several minutes. Using a headlight (high beam) will practise the pull a fast one on. After turning off the light yous are ready to test the battery.

State of Charge	Specific Gravity	Voltage
		12V	6V
100%	i.265	12.7	vi.3
75%	1.225	12.4	vi.two
fifty%	1.190	12.two	6.1
25%	1.155	12.0	vi.0
Discharged	1.120	xi.9	6.0

Specific Gravity: Total charge SG will run from nearly 1.260 in an automobile battery to about 1.275 in a golf cart. Loftier SG (more acid) allows more than juice (current) to be drawn–simply but upward to a bespeak; then the bombardment deteriorates–fast. Golf game cart plates are made to handle this, RV/Marine somewhat, automotive non at all. Don't try to get more AH by calculation acid (or vinegar instead of distilled water), the bombardment volition just dice sooner.

More than ON SPECIFIC GRAVITY–and checking resting voltage
If you have standard batteries, become a good hydrometer (not one with colored floating assurance in it). It must have a tube inside with SG increments clearly marked and a built in thermometer with a temperature correction chart. It's unlikely that a new battery, even freshly charged, will give more than lxxx% of its rated output. You'll get more after it'due south been used and recharged a few times–unless it's faulty. Check SG anyhow to establish a "baseline" reading.

Expect peculiarly for differences between cells. A variation of .050 between any means a possible trouble. This is after information technology's charged and bubbled a chip to mix chemicals thoroughly. If it'due south a new battery and this happens, accept information technology dorsum. If old, plan on replacing it soon. It probably has a stratified/shorted jail cell. Initially, in that location'due south no need in checking SG until a battery reaches nearly 70% of total charge and is bubbles/gassing slightly (not boiling like a coffee pot). Then, accept readings in one case each hour and write them down. When iii successive readings are alike, the battery is as charged as it will get. Record readings for each cell and battery. Disconnect battery from whatever charge or load and leave it overnight (24 hours is meliorate). Check SG again. Readings may be a bit lower, just should be consequent. Tape these as your new baseline: your normal, full charge, resting values.

Exercise this once more after ii weeks or a calendar month of apply. Readings may be slightly higher, but again, should be consistent. If the batteries have been constantly overcharged or undercharged, information technology will show up here. You should have checked that your battery charger was set properly before starting all this, but if you lot go abnormal readings cheque that your charger is regulating properly (meet later). If y'all take to add together water this presently, y'all are almost definitely overcharging. In one case you've done the above tests, you shouldn't take to do information technology more than than twice a year unless you detect a trouble. You should check water level about in one case a month. Ideally, y'all shouldn't have to add water more than 2 to 4 times a year. More than that probably indicates overcharging.

Using a Hydrometer Without Making a Mess

Stick information technology in a cell until it just rests on acme of the plates. Eject in and out a few times–gently, don't splatter. Then fill until the inner tube floats. Besides little and it will rest on bottom of hydrometer. Too much and it will hitting the height. In either example, you lot'll get false readings. Don't remove the affair from the cell to read information technology, you'll simply baste acid all over. Take your reading and write it down. Read at the fluid level, not at the slight curvature where the fluid touches the inner tube. (Before moving to the next cell, don't forget to squirt the acrid dorsum in.) Notation temperature on thermometer and right reading as indicated. Note, over again, that all readings for a battery should be within .050 of each other. Go along in mind you might have a inexpensive or faulty hydrometer. El cheapos have a newspaper SG scale in the tube that slips upwards and downwardly.

Load testing is yet another way of testing a bombardment. Load exam removes amps from a bombardment much like starting an engine would. A load tester can be purchased at nigh auto parts stores. Some battery companies label their battery with the amp load for testing. This number is usually 1/2 of the CCA rating. For case, a 500CCA battery would load test at 250 amps for 15 seconds. A load test can only be performed if the battery is near or at total charge.

Hydrometer readings should not vary more than .05 differences between cells.

Digital Voltmeters should read equally the voltage is shown in this document. The sealed AGM and Gel-Cell battery voltage (full charged) will be slightly higher in the 12.viii to 12.ix ranges. If you have voltage readings in the 10.5 volts range on a charged battery, that typically indicates a shorted jail cell.

If you have a maintenance free wet jail cell, the only ways to test are voltmeter and load test. Any of the maintenance free type batteries that have a built in hydrometer(black/green window) will tell you the status of ane cell of 6. You lot may get a good reading from one cell only have a trouble with other cells in the bombardment.

MAINTENANCE

Maintenance is all-important. Crud on top of a battery provides a path between poles. It's a "brusk." One well-nigh people never observe, but information technology uses free energy constantly.You don't demand to slop baking soda all over. Often simply a spray 'north wipe with household cleaner is all that'southward needed.

• Corrosion will build upward. Some-times you can't fifty-fifty encounter information technology. Take contacts apart and clean them. (Now is when you might use baking soda, simply don't let information technology get in the cells.) Done one time or twice a yr, it's fast and easy.
• Before putting things back together, glaze all surfaces (thinly) with silicone dielectric grease. That'due south before, not afterward. You won't accomplish a thing by smearing grease on top of corrosion.
• Never apply red bombardment spray. It just makes things worse. The reddish/green felt, noncorrosive washers are okay.
• Label or color-code cable and wire ends. Make a diagram. If you don't, you'll simply hook things upward incorrect.

MORE DETAILS ON BATTERIES (MOSTLY GEL CELLS and AGM)
Much of the same cloth applies: All batteries need to exist maintained. All batteries need to be kept charged — but non overcharged or undercharged. All need clean connections and expert, stout cablevision and wire of the proper size. No bombardment should be routinely deep-cycled. Of most importance, charging needs to exist well regulated.

And here'south where the difference betwixt gels, AGMs and regular, moisture-jail cell batteries starts to show up seriously.

• Wet jail cell (flooded) batteries: Suspended plates, usually with some class of separators (so plates don't touch each other) are immersed in liquid electrolyte. These may be charged, just as a starter bombardment, which makes things a lot simpler.
• Gel batteries: Plates are suspended in a thick gelled electrolyte that insures stability and eliminates voids or "air pockets" at the plates. The best gels are those by "Due east Penn Mfg." (under "SeaGel," Prevailer" and other labels — but the Eastward Penn name will announced somewhere). Competitors are light weights. Gels are seldom charged to more than 14.1 volts initial (bulk) charge and 13.8 (13.65 is better) equally a "float" charge (run into later on).
• AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) batteries: A dense fiber matting between the plates and a liquid electrolyte provide
  similar features to gel batteries but are much more than rugged since they were designed for use in aircraft and crude terrain vehicles. The best AGMs are those fabricated past "Concorde" (commonly under the "Lifeline" characterization just Concorde will appear somewhere). AGMs (similar gels) are very sensitive to overcharge. 14.38 volts is recommended for the initial (majority) charge and 13.38 every bit a "float" charge.

Pros and Cons:

Standard, old-timey flooded batteries are cheap (initially). They'll do the chore (golf carts or similar better than RV/Marine stuff). Encounter remarks elsewhere. They will vent gas and fluid, simply it can exist replenished with distilled water. They crave a lot of care.

Gells and AGMs can do a better job and concluding longer, BUT also require special intendance. They're rather expensive initially (but my half dozen gels are in their tenth year, as good equally new, and the price nets out to less than standard batteries). Notwithstanding, they are very carefully charged and that requires an expensive charger/regulator. Gels and AGMs don't demand a lot of maintenance and cleaning (other than a quick spray and wipe from a household cleaner) UNLESS you lot practise something stupid and overcharge them. They won't spill acid, are very shock resistant, don't laissez passer gas (pun intended) unless seriously overcharged, have a VERY depression self-discharge charge per unit (dainty when the RV is in storage) and have a very long bicycle life.

I've used golf cart batteries, regular batteries and gels. Equally I'll repeat with more detail elsewhere, golf carts and similar batteries are, all things considered, the all-time solution. Were I to have to replace my batteries today (they're in the living compartment in a small-scale RV), I'd go with AGM. In a bigger RV, I'd go with golf game cart or fork elevator batteries.

You should never charge a gel bombardment to more than 14.ane volts (or to more than the voltage specified by the manufacturer) before the regulator shuts off the charger except for very cursory periods. Then, as a battery is "floated" (kept on the charger with a charge applied to proceed it up to a reasonable level), it should never exceed thirteen.8 volts (better, for long life is a maximum of thirteen.65 volts). Again, though, you don't float the bombardment permanently. Y'all occasionally bring information technology upward to 14.+ (this is EZ with a solar regulator or better quality battery charger that will perform regulating tasks frequently and automatically. (more later.)AGMs are charged similarly, just with different voltages.

Actually, you lot'd be foolish to keep (float) whatsoever battery at a sustained accuse of over fourteen volts. You'd just clothing it out prematurely and it would be spewing acid all the fourth dimension, making a mess. Just with a regular, wet-cell bombardment with removable caps, you can add together water and make clean up the corrosion. With a gel, or whatever other (actually) sealed battery, you can't add water. All yous can do is watch the battery deteriorate.

Gel batteries and AGMs do accept caps, simply don't ever try to remove them. Outset, you'll violate the warranty. Second, you'll contaminate the within. When it dies early, the dealer/manufacturing plant volition know you did this and volition void the warranty. Besides, if you overcharge a gel or AGM battery, the manufacturing plant can detect that, also. Again, no more than warranty.

TEMPERATURE
Temperature is of import when charging any kind of batteries. A really hot bombardment (EZ to achieve if they're sitting out in a cheap, plastic box) will overcharge well before the voltages listed before. Keeping batteries "indoors" helps go along them at nigh an ideal temperature (of about 68 to 77ºF). Actually, loftier temperature only becomes a real problem when the battery is existence "floated." A 13.8 volt bladder can easily become a xiv+ a-whole-bunch float at 90º. Temp can besides be a winter problem as batteries effort to freeze and their amp hour capacity is reduced by over xxx%.

More than ON REGULATING CHARGE
In that location are merely a few RV converter/combination battery chargers that are worth having. Almost do an absolutely lousy task and you oasis't the faintest idea what wild voltage (or lack of) is going to your batteries. Some converter/chargers do work. Check yours no matter what kind of battery you lot utilize. With the matter operating, and the bombardment reasonably-well charged, and not much more load on the battery than the TV antenna amplifier and reefer encephalon (RV reefers with a excursion lath use 12 volts all the fourth dimension, just to operate the lath), put a digital volt meter across the "house" battery terminals. Go out it there awhile and see if it's holding the batteries to effectually 13.8 volts. (Or is information technology charging them up to something ridiculous?) (Or is it charging at all?) Some, even fewer, RVs use a carve up battery charger (not as part of a converter). Mostly, these are pretty practiced (and expensive). Simply check them the same way. It's not at all uncommon to find stock RV battery chargers floating batteries at 14.3 volts or college. The best chargers regulate in two, iii or four stages. First, anytime at that place's sufficient demand, they full accuse to 14.+ volts (adjustable past you). Second, they revert to a "float" charge of nearly 13.8 (which in skilful chargers is adaptable again). Some have a tertiary, "equalizing" stage, automatic or transmission, that should as well exist adjustable. (At that place are some four-stage chargers also.)

If you want to utilise gel or AGM batteries, you must have a proficient, reliable, user-adjustable regulator and charger. The best way to charge batteries is with a solar electric system. (Again, check beginning and final with "RV Solar Electrical" to a higher place.) A solar system (if it has a user-adjustable regulator) will allow you set up the charge cut-off at desired volts. Usually, someday the solar system achieves that, it volition cut off and drop to about thirteen.ane volts earlier resuming (some solar regs will back off to a float voltage). This gives the batteries a "residuum" and keeps them from overcharging. (And, of course, at night, solar systems don't do anything, so there's a good rest, too.) For a backup, you can use a generator or commercial ability. Make sure your generator (if it has a direct DC 12 volt charging outlet) is gear up to regulate at proper volts! If information technology simply charges through your converter, y'all'll accept checked that higher up, but recheck information technology with the generator running. Do the same with an independent charger. Many others are available.

Deep Cycling
Let'south consider something here: Ane does non deep cycle a bombardment daily as a affair of form. If one did, and then the maximum life of any bombardment would equal the available number of cycles and no bombardment would concluding more than 6 to 9 months. Ideally, what you need is a battery (batteries) that will provide the ability you require without existence cycled (depleted from resting full charge) by more than than xx to 50% before beingness recharged. (If y'all have a 100AH battery and have no more than 20AH from it earlier recharging, it might last longer than y'all will.) Unfortunately, this isn't realistic, but yous can take up to 50% from a battery earlier recharging and notwithstanding go long life. Simple arithmetic–how many AH used versus how many AH available will tell you lot how many batteries are needed. Continue in mind that y'all shouldn't expect but lxxx% of the manufacturer'south rating. So a 105AH battery is really about 84AH. MAX! No battery will give you its rated output in real life! They're rated downwardly to an end point of ten.five volts. By then, lights get dim and Television receiver picture small. A Specific Gravity of most 1.200 or a voltage of 12.25 to 12.3 means the battery is virtually 50% discharged. Past the fourth dimension it's downwards to 11.8 or 12 volts, it's most expressionless.

AMP Hours and Battery Capacity
What are "Amp Hours"? Amp hours is the amount of current in "Amps" times the number of hours it can deliver that current.
Example: A 100 amp-hour battery can deliver 10 amps for 10 hours or xx amps for 5 hours.
One amp for 100 hours, or any combination, should allow you to rate batteries, but it doesn't piece of work like that. (Information technology'southward a logarithmic, not a linear, progression.) Further, capacity, in AH, depends on several things: size, amount/type electrolyte, plate thickness, etc. You don't desire to investigate all that crap. Of fundamental interest to us are:

Charge per unit of Discharge: Generally 20 hours for automotive, 6 for golf game cart and 8 for RV/Marine. A 180AH golf cart will, technically, give you 30 amps for its rated 6 hours, but information technology will not give 60 amps for three hours. (Has to do with things similar estrus at this higher charge per unit due to extreme chemical action demanded–stuff you lot don't want to fool with.) It will give one amp for about 105 hours, though, which is nice to know. Don't merely read AH. Read the charts when comparison batteries.

Specific Gravity: Full charge SG volition run from about 1.260 in an auto bombardment to near 1.275 in a golf cart. High SG (more than acid) allows more juice (current) to be fatigued–but only up to a point; then the bombardment deteriorates–fast. Golf game cart plates are made to handle this, RV/Marine somewhat, automotive not at all. Don't attempt to get more AH by adding acid (or vinegar instead of distilled water), the bombardment will just dice sooner.

Temperature: Batteries are made to perform best at 77°F. At college temps, they put out more than, but die sooner. At lower temps, they put out less, simply last longer (unless you allow them freeze).

CABLES AND CONNECTIONS

Tying the arrangement together is of import. No point spending a lot of money on batteries and chargers and wiring information technology up with skimpy junk. Large battery cables tin be purchased from San Diego Battery Wholesale. Custom-fabricated cable to your lengths with terminals that match your vehicle is also available.

METERING BATTERIES
If you have maintenance free (maintenance prohibitive) batteries, you can't accept fun with a hydrometer. Even if you can use a hydrometer, you don't need to (or want to) do it more than a couple of times a year. Use the chart (see later) to keep an accurate check on state of charge. When taking SG readings, measure voltage at the same time. Keep in mind that if a bombardment is charging, voltage will read most ½ to 1 volt higher than actual. Note that nautical chart voltages (later) are as picayune as .05 apart. Yous tin can't read that accurately on an analog (dial/needle-faced) meter. Yous demand a digital meter. You lot don't need to spend over $200 for a professional model. See ads in electronics magazines for reasonably priced meters. Yous need a 3½ digit" meter (reads to two decimal places) and get 1 with at least a 10 amp current measure out (xx is better). Now, the best bargain is a Metex make #M3800 3½ digit at 20 amp capacity for $forty from: JAMECO. (See Sources.) All RVers need i of these anyway.

When checking the batteries, (at residual) use these "Voltage Landmarks".

12.6 volts = 100%
12.5 volts = seventy%
12.3 volts = 50%
eleven.iv volts = 20%

More than ON UNDERCHARGE AND OVERCHARGE
"Under" results in stratification. "Over" just eats the plates. Apply a regulator to forbid overcharge. When you think a battery is charged, too loftier a SG means over. Too depression means nether. Compare with an accurate voltage check. You should only demand to add together water a few times a twelvemonth. More means battery'due south gassing too much. You lot can't tell past feeling the rut of the battery instance any more than (meliorate plastics). You must put about 10% more energy into a battery than you lot have out (more loftier school physics–anytime energy is transformed, there must be some loss). An "sometime" battery tin require more. Compare how much you're putting in versus what you take out and size your system appropriately.

CONNECTING BATTERIES IN PARALLEL, Serial and Series-PARALLEL

This is really simple, just it's amazing how many RVers spiral information technology all up!

In series, volts increase; amps remain the aforementioned.
In parallel, amps increase; volts remain the same.

In Parallel: you lot connect the (+) of one 12vbat to the (+) of the other. Connect (-) of 1 to the (-) of the other. Yous will then take still have a 12volt bat, but with greater amp hour chapters. This is at present an ordinary 12V bat, except that instead of being in one "box," it is in 2 boxes.

In Serial: If you were to hook two 12 volt batteries in series, yous'd have 24 volts. Clearly non the thing to do unless yous have a bus conversion or custom rig that uses 24Volts. However, many RVers use 6 volt (normally golf cart) batteries. E.G., Two 105AH 6v in series would still = virtually 105AH but @ a nominal 12V.

Wiring in Serial:
To visualize information technology easier. Start with a simple block diagram. Ii 6V batteries.
On left bat, place (-) at left finish, place (+) on right cease.
On right bat, identify (-) on left terminate, place (+) on correct end.
Draw a line from (+) on left bat to next (-) on right bat.

This is now an ordinary 12V bat, except that instead of existence in one "box" with cells all connected in series on the interior, it is in two boxes joined with a cable. Information technology's still a single 12 volt bat, electrically, then Starting time THINKING OF Information technology THIS WAY and don't confuse yourself past thinking of it every bit bat 1 and bat ii.

At this point, you've got two unused bat posts — merely like an ordinary 12 volt bat; 1 neg that goes to chassis footing and 1 pos that goes to normal 12V isolator/supply/etc.

Series/Parallel:
Just echo the series step to a higher place with two more half dozen volt bats and y'all end up with 2 12V bats. Think of it this way instead of as 4 6V bats! You at present have two (-) unused posts. Connect them together (simply as y'all would when connecting two ordinary 12V bats in parallel). Repeat for the ii unused (+) posts.

It's really quite uncomplicated. The problem many people have is in thinking that this is very complicated. It's not.

The but time you think of the bats equally 4 6V bats is when you disconnect them for maintenance and cleaning. And and then, only to make absolutely sure that you don't screw up when putting them dorsum together.
Toward this end, it'southward essential that yous conspicuously label posts and cable ends!

% Of Charge	Standard Battery Typical Specific Gravity (Later on Temperature Correction)	Standard Bombardment Equivalent Resting Volts	Gel-Jail cell Battery Equivalent Resting Volts
100%	one.260 (motorcar) to 1.280 (industrial)	12.60-12.75	12.90-thirteen.00
95%	1.255	12.lx-12.70	12.80
90%	1.250 (Resting Due south.G. for standard RV battery.)	12.60-12.65	12.seventy
85%	one.245 (Same as above. No point being too picky.)	12.60
80%	one.235-one.240 (We endeavor not to belch below this betoken.)	12.50-12.55	12.threescore
75%	1.225-i.230 (1.230=minimum SG for a charged battery.)	12.50
seventy%	one.220 (Anything below ane.220 is "poorly" charged.)	12.45	12.50
65%	1.215	12.forty
sixty%	1.205	12.35	12.twoscore
55%	1.200	12.xxx
50%	1.190-1.195 (Attempt to never discharge below this indicate.)	12.25	12.35
45%	1.185	12.xx
40%	one.180	12.fifteen-12.20	12.25
25%	ane.160-ane.170 (Dangerously low; bombardment being damaged.)	12.x-12.15
20%	1.150 (Cells die soon at this indicate. Bye-bye battery.)	11.80-12.00	12.15

TROUBLESHOOTING

Firm Battery: The intent here is to determine if the bombardment itself is adept, and, in its office as a "business firm" battery, how you lot can test it, the house wiring and charging circuit.

Situation: You're charging the bombardment from any one of several sources. Everything has been working fine; but for no apparent reason and all of a sudden, there'south no electricity. Don't just start taking everything apart! Look around for the obvious. Is the battery still in that location? Is everything in one piece? (A nearby lightning strike can blow the top off.) Are the cables connected? I once spent an hour roaming effectually with a volt meter only to observe I'd but left the negative cable off.

Steps:
Connect a volt meter across the battery. It should read some, reasonable voltage even if well discharged (unless it'due south dead). If voltage is adequate, and bold things are normal, try moving/twisting the master cablevision clamps at the battery. Often, even on a make clean-appearing battery, a thin film of corrosion builds up betwixt post and connector (that you lot can't run into). While the corrosion builds upward very gradually, its effect tin happen suddenly.

• Adjacent, specially if the connections are cruddy, place the tip of an upright, apartment-bladed screwdriver on top at the circular junction of mail and clench and requite information technology a skilful sock with your fist (not a hammer).
• Do the same with the other post. If bad connections are the problem, the to a higher place should let at to the lowest degree some electricity to menstruum–enough to indicate the trouble. If the above helps at all, have things apart and clean them.
• If the above doesn't help, outset disconnect the charging source then disconnect the battery (you lot might as well go ahead and remove it). Earlier you starting time phiddling with the battery, attach a pair of jumper cables from a known, good battery to the RV cables.
• Adhere the (+) cablevision first. If you don't allow the loose stop touch something, in that location should exist no sparks because there's no identify for electricity to go (notwithstanding).
• Then adhere the (-) cablevision to the "good" bombardment. (Again, there should be no sparks if y'all don't screw up.)
• Finally, attach the last (-) stop to the RV cable (If the bad bombardment was removed, sparks at this final connection shouldn't hurt anything. This seems like a roundabout way to do all this but there's a reason for it.
• If there'south now electricity in your business firm, yous know you had a discharged bombardment. Perhaps a bad battery, but not necessarily. Again, before you starting time phiddling with the "bad" battery, you need to bank check the charging arrangement. The idea hither is find out why the battery discharged.
• Run a load (lamp or whatever) to remove the surface charge from your "skilful" temporary battery. Depending on what kind of bombardment charger you accept, y'all may need to run the battery down to about 13V or less to get the regulator to allow charging to resume. Go along measuring voltage. When charging resumes, it will increment.
• If the voltage doesn't increase, it'southward possible that your charging source (converter, generator, solar system) isn't working or the flow is interrupted.

Make the dumb checks first:

• Is the converter working? Is the "kill" switch on or off on some motor homes? It'southward unlikely, because then you should have had a gradual loss, not a sudden one. It is possible though.
• And it'south possible you have a bad battery AND a bad charging system. RV converters with built-in battery chargers can really misfile you. There are 2 outputs to these things: One furnishes 12V directly from the transformer to most house circuits. The other goes from battery charger portion to battery. If you lot've been plugged into commercial power, the main transformer may have been running everything while the battery charger was not working. Also, the "kill" switch may have been off or fuse from charger blown. (Bank check the dumb things first.)
• Put a volt meter at the bombardment finish while you're doing it. Quite ofttimes, a footling manipulating will clear things correct up. If non, get dorsum to the source of the charging organization with your volt meter. Is there power at the charger output? At the output to bombardment terminal at solar panels or solar regulator?
• Again, cheque fuses carefully. You can't tell if a fuse is bad by looking at it, you need to measure out it with a examination lamp. Remember that a meter can signal "good" if there'due south only a slight contact but a test lamp won't work if in that location'south not enough to conduct the load.
• If this as well fails, y'all may accept to check at the charging source with no battery attached. Information technology'southward easy with an RV converter, merely if you use a solar system or wind generator you may not be able to (some can be severely damaged if run without a load). RTFM (Read The F****** Manual)! Our purpose in checking at the source (with or without battery continued) is to meet if at that place'due south annihilation at that place.

If there's still no voltage, at present starts the onerous process of checking the whole system.

• Do information technology logically. Go all the way to the source first. Disconnect generator, solar panels, whatever, from the system. You can at present measure them in operation without damaging anything (except some wind chargers). If the charger works, you know that you accept two long pieces of wire (+) and (-) with a problem somewhere. Don't ignore the (-) wire. It is every bit as necessary equally the (+). Reconnect charger and battery if necessary.
• Go to some logical halfway point with your volt meter. I way or the other, you'll get voltage (unless you missed something at the source). Continue in this mode, roughly going halfway (each time on the dead side). Unless you screw upward, y'all'll soon isolate the problem to merely a few feet of wire. If something hasn't been left unconnected or the wire been cutting, you'll usually isolate the trouble to a connexion or fuse.
• Look at things, pull on wires to make sure they're really attached. This is where bad crimped connections show upwards. (I spent an hour helping someone rail down a solar system this way. Every crimped concluding savage autonomously in my hands. He'd crimped them with normal pliers.) Look for corrosion at terminals, only as at battery cables. Think that just because a converter is buzzing, it doesn't mean the battery charger is working. If working with a solar system, never try to put a jumper beyond the solar (+) and bombardment (+) to bypass the regulator–yous'll fry it. Even so, if y'all disconnect those wires from the regulator, and so you can put them together.

All the higher up can exist done with a volt meter or exam lamp. In fact, a test lamp works better at continuity checks, considering a volt meter might indicate power if only 1 strand of wire is all the same continued while a test lamp won't light if it doesn't take a circuit heavy plenty for the load.

TO Cheque THE BATTERY ITSELF–MORE ON RESTING VOLTAGE

It tin can be checked with a hydrometer, merely a battery tin read OK and still exist faulty. Here's a proficient style to bank check a battery. Information technology takes time, but it's worth information technology:

• Accuse it fully, preferably with a proficient bombardment charger or an contained, manual, automotive charger (you lot demand one anyway for emergencies). This can take awhile if it's been deep discharged (dead).
• Measure voltage. It should be quite high–over 13 volts and 14.+ is better. Disconnect the charger. Get out the bombardment (with cypher connected to it) at least 6 hours. Overnight or 24 hours is meliorate.
• Measure voltage again. It should be 12.6 volts. If non, even if information technology's 12.5, it'due south a goner or it'southward going. If it reads 12.6, it still might be bad.
• A commercial battery shop tin can cheque this with a variable load tester. So can you. If the battery is at least a so-chosen l00AH RV/Marine type, it should beginning nearly engines in decent weather. Connect a volt meter beyond information technology. If it doesn't showtime, leap start it. Run the engine at a nice, fast idle (ane,500 to ii,000 rpm).
• If the voltage rises to over xiv volts in only 4 or 5 minutes, you accept a bad bombardment. Due to things we won't dwell on here, the AH chapters has been severely reduced (stratification, deep discharges, etc.). What you have is a battery that has about a l0AH chapters instead of l00AH. It tests OK because it has some capacity (might run a lamp a few hours), simply non enough. This mutual problem oftentimes drives people nuts. It tests OK, information technology but won't last long.
• The same test works on machine batteries. They test OK only won't start an engine.

BATTERY ISOLATORS

Almost everybody has one. Most people never pay attention to them. I do. And I've got mine remoted to a switch on the nuance to avert the [many] problems they can cause. Well-nigh isolators ship a accuse to the batteries automatically. I don't want to do that. Commonly, my solar organization keeps the "house" batteries charged but fine. In that location are times, in bad weather, when I need to heave the batteries, so when on the road I hit the switch that goes to the charge line to house batteries and the engine alternator charges them in the normal way. A inexpensive, voltmeter on the dash keeps me informed when to close charging off.

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Source: https://deepcyclebatterystore.com/how-to-maintain-batteries/

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